To begin with, you will need to acquire a turbo kit, without which you cannot install a turbocharger on a car. A turbo kit typically includes a turbo, an intercooler, a manifold, pipes, a pipe leading to the muffler, and a system designed to control the fuel supply.
It is not possible to install the turbo on all types of engines. There are even situations when it is easier to purchase a new car with an initially installed turbo than to put it in a gasoline engine. Not everyone will be able to install the turbo correctly, and therefore it is recommended to install it by a mechanic with solid skills and experience. If you put the turbo in the “see how it goes” style, its operational life will be concise.
At the first stage, you will need to remove the elements responsible for the inlet and outlet of the airflow in the system. The new turbo manifold is connected to the turbocharger inlet. The turbo must be installed so that it is possible to carry out work on the installation of the branch pipes.
Next, the cooling channel is fastened to the motor lubrication system using an oil tube. For a simpler connection, a sensor is intended that is responsible for the oil pressure. The cooling system is connected to the water pump.
To form a sufficient amount of air-fuel mixture, installing injectors with a high level of performance is necessary, which will supply the correct amount of fuel for the mixture. For this system to work, it will also be necessary to replace the old fuel pump because the old one will probably not provide the amount of fuel for the new injectors that are required.
Electronic systems will monitor all sensors that monitor the temperature of the air and coolant. For the systems to work like a “clock,” all control elements should be calibrated so that, for example, fuel is injected exactly at the moment when air is supplied to the cylinders. Such engine alteration is a rather difficult task, and to carry it out efficiently, considerable forces and resources, as well as skillful hands, are required.
If your turbo is out of order over time, then a mechanic will diagnose the turbo of a gasoline engine. Most worships will restore your turbo in 4 hours and should offer at least a 1-year warranty!
Before installing a new turbo, be sure to understand and find out the reasons for the breakdown of the original turbocharger and try to eliminate them. And only if the original turbocharger cannot be repaired completely, replace it with a new one.
Before purchasing and installing a new turbo on an engine, be sure to check that the turbocharger is suitable for your engine type. You can find out by using the original and serial number of the turbo and finding out which specific type of engine this or that turbocharger is designed. This point is critical since the warranty for a turbo installed on an unsuitable engine type does not apply.
Installing a turbocharger on the engine
The first stage of work will be the preparation of the engine for the subsequent installation of a new turbo on it. To do this, follow these steps:
- Drain the oil from the engine, and then rinse it from the remains of the used oil;
- Remove the engine breather, rinse it thoroughly, and then reinstall it;
- Disconnect the oil inlet and outlet pipes from the turbocharger. Rinse them well and check for coking and mechanical damage; if found, replace the tubes with new ones;
- Remove the air pipes of the intake system and make sure they are free of dust particles, oil, or other debris. If damage is found, replace them with new ones;
- Remove, flush the intercooler, and check it for mechanical damage, coke particles, dust, or gaskets. If damage is found, be sure to replace it with a new one;
- The same steps apply to the exhaust pipes. They need to be removed; make sure that there is no oil, litter, saws; if any, you should clean them. In the presence of visible mechanical damage, we proceed in the same way as with other damaged parts – we replace them with new ones;
- Remove the old turbo, check for damage, be sure to pay attention, and check the condition of the exhaust manifold flange. If defects are found, replace them. The next stage is the installation of a new turbocharger and additional components.
- Replace the old oil filter with a new one, first pouring clean oil into it;
- Flush the engine with special means to remove waste oil residues and fill it with clean oil
- Install the intercooler and connect it;
- Install a new turbocharger on the exhaust manifold. After installation, make sure that the gasket is pressed correctly;
- Install the oil drain pipe;
- Slowly turning the shaft by hand, gradually fill the turbocharger with clean oil;
- Install the oil supply pipe;
- Replace the air filter
- Connect all air connections and make sure they are tight;
- Connect the outlet and check that it is tightly tightened;
- Without starting the engine, crank it; this is necessary to create the necessary pressure in the oil system and turbocharger;
- Start the engine and leave it idling, and after 5-10 minutes, start a gradual increase in load to warm up to operating temperature;
- Check for oil leaks, air leaks, and hot gases. Also, be sure to make sure that there are no extraneous noises and vibrations. You can use soapy water to detect gas leaks;
- Make a test drive with a gradual increase in engine load;
- After a test drive, check again for oil leaks and hot gas leaks, and other unusual signs;
- In the case of a recent cap. Repair the engine, make another unscheduled oil change after 1000 km of run.
After these steps, You will complete the turbo installation, and the engine will be ready for operation.
Installing the turbo after its repair by yourself
Increasing the power of a car engine at a low cost is a normal desire of every car owner. This will require the installation of an engine turbo. A turbocharger, or turbocharging, provides an almost instant effect on the performance of the car.
Having the necessary knowledge, you can buy the necessary materials at a low cost and ensure the installation of the device on your car. The turbocharger actually allows you to increase the car’s power up to 40% of its original state without the need to change or improve anything. Now let’s consider what you have to do about this.
Let’s consider some of the nuances. You need to remember about them until the moment you buy a turbo. This will help you to orient yourself correctly during part selection and installation.
The principle of operation of a turbocharger consists of using the energy of the exhaust gases and forcing a compressed air mixture into the engine’s combustion chamber. Exhaust gases press on the compressor impeller, allowing air to be sucked in through special filters.
The air is compressed, cooled, and fed into the cylinder, enriching the fuel mixture and ensuring the high efficiency of its combustion. As the speed increases, the supply airflow increases. If the power decreases, the amount of air mixture also decreases proportionally.
Features of installing a turbocharger
Before installing the engine turbo, you need to familiarize yourself with the materials you should not use. In particular, sealants. The turbocharger is constantly at high temperatures, so the sealants will simply flow. Moreover, some of them will get inside the compressor and cause clogging. May cause its failure.
First of all, to install or repair a turbo, it is necessary to check the oil and water filters, the fuel, the lubrication system, and change the pipes. An important point is balancing, lubrication of the moving elements of the rotor.
How the installation procedure works
Now let’s move on to the real steps of how to put a turbocharger. It should be noted that this part is very fragile; therefore, in the process of installing it, you should be extremely careful and careful. The slightest mistake can damage the new kit. And the need to change it to a new one.
The general step-by-step turbo setting is as follows:
- First of all, the carburetor and air filter are removed. They are cleaned of dirt, dust, and other contaminants.
The next step is to perform catalyst diagnostics to find hidden faults.
- Flush, clean all existing air connections, as well as the ventilation system. For this, it is advisable to use ordinary gasoline as a liquid.
- All channels supplying air are purified. There should be no remnants of dust, dirt, sand, and other small particles. They reduce the efficiency of the compressor.
- After that, the turbo is carefully installed. This element must be securely fastened. The procedure requires little effort. Therefore, if something does not become, check the correctness of your past actions.
- At the next stage, it is necessary to fix the nozzles responsible for the supply of exhaust gases, as well as air injection.
- After finishing the manual start of the turboshaft, you must pour a little oil into the apparatus with a syringe. To avoid trouble, it is forbidden to stop the rotation of the rotor during this procedure.
- Then you can start the engine at low (idle) speeds and allow it to work a little. This will allow you to evaluate the results of the work of the mechanic.
- Keep in mind that the installation scheme is not complicated. But it is better to start the engine after manually turning the shaft shows the absence of any troubles.
Remember, the durability of a turbocharger’s trouble-free operation is directly dependent on timely oil changes, air filters, and maintenance.
All the advantages and disadvantages of cars with a turbocharged engine type emerge from the characteristics of the turbocharger. First of all, you need to understand that turbocharging is a type of supercharging in which air enters the engine cylinders under pressure, which is facilitated by the energy of the exhaust gases. Due to this fact, the turbocharged power units of vehicles have a higher liter capacity, which means that the dynamic characteristics of such a car will be much higher than that of atmospheric options.
You can install the turbo on any engine type, gasoline, and diesel, but the main requirement must be high quality. Only a quality product from a reliable manufacturer can improve the performance of your vehicle’s engine.
Important! The power unit of the machine must be in perfect condition. Otherwise, even the installation of a turbo will not allow achieving maximum performance.
The turbo is set in motion using exposure to exhaust gases, so it can only work when the engine is running. That is, we can say that the motor works for itself.
From the impeller in the exhaust manifold, the movement is transmitted to the compressor, the design of which allows it not to be afraid of high temperatures and to serve for a long time. As a result, air flows under high pressure are injected into the power system, increasing the motor’s power.
Interesting fact! The first person who described and patented the working principle of a turbocharger was Alfred Büchi, and this happened in 1905.
In addition to the turbo, you will also need
The turbocharger is a key element in engine tuning, but it is far from the only one. In addition to a low or high-pressure turbo, you will also need other items to upgrade your powertrain. Basically, these include the following components.
- The copper radiator of a two-row type (2110), compared to a similar VAZ part, has a higher performance.
- Intercooler, i.e., intercooler of charge air, which is presented in the form of a heat exchanger.
- Important! An intercooler that is too large can create problems and cause turbo lag. This term refers to the waiting time for boost pressure after the throttle valve is opened. At the same time, a too-small element will not have time to cool the air flows.
- The exhaust manifold is also not a superfluous part when tuning the engine (a turbo is installed on it). It can be made independently or bought ready-made (spare parts for turbo tuning at VAZ are not uncommon today).
- When rebuilding the engine, a turbo is installed in the standard intake manifold, so you will have to replace the intake with a receiver installed in the front of the engine. In this case, the choice of a replacement part is wide enough, but we will not go into it in detail now.
An important element is a connecting pipe, which unites the engine lubrication system and the turbo, supplying oil to it. Finding this part in the finished form will also not be difficult, although you can make it yourself. In any case, its main characters should be reliable.
In fact, this is an essential component of the VAZ engine, which can be powered from the tee of the oil pressure sensor (the simplest option). Do not forget to pair this pipe with an oil drain hose to divert oil from the turbo back to the engine.
Since the compression ratio of the turbo engine differs from that of the atmospheric unit, the pistons will also have to be replaced, which will have to reduce the compression level. It is possible to make these elements from “Nivov” parts, but this will require a certain tool, machines, and experience, making buying ready-made options easier.
You should also stock up on new injectors since the increase in power will increase gasoline consumption, which means that the standard injectors will not be able to cope with the functions assigned to them.
Also, do not forget to change the fuel pump, having previously selected the option with higher performance.
With a high airflow, malfunctions are often observed in the operation of the mass airflow sensor, which often starts to junk even with excess pressure in the intake. For this reason, it has to be changed to an absolute pressure (MAP) sensor, in addition to which there is an air temperature sensor (DTV).
Note! Of the engine control units installed on cars of the VAZ group, only January 5.1 … 41, 5.1 … 61, or January 7.2, related to the old hardware implementation (aluminum block cover), can work with DBP.
If your vehicle has other models installed, they need to be replaced with one of the options mentioned. It is likely that taking into account its features; the wiring will need to be replaced or altered. In addition, not all customizers have software for these blocks, so when choosing, you should consult with a specialist who will be engaged in customization.
Piping is also an interesting concept, especially considering that you will also need this component. In fact, there is nothing complicated in the meaning of this concept. These are the connecting elements that are located between the turbo and the intercooler and between the intercooler and the intake receiver.
When building a turbo engine on a VAZ (no matter what model is meant: 2106, 2107, 2110, 2112, etc.), it will not be possible to do without an overpressure relief valve. You need to understand that after releasing the gas pedal after re-gas, the turbo continues to rotate for some time, pumping air by inertia.
Since this air has nowhere to go, the pressure in the intake begins to rise sharply, which can easily lead to a breakdown of the turbo, intercooler, piping, or any other elements. In this case, you have to look for a way to dump air, an excellent option for which is a dump valve. In fact, there are two of them, although the working principle is the same: the bypass dumps air flows to the inlet after the filter to the turbo, and the blow-off sends them into the atmosphere.
Well, that’s probably all; it remains only to decide on the price issue and purchase the specified parts. You will likely need additional spare parts in some particular cases, but this already depends on the make of the machine and the specifics of the installation process.
Interesting! The first turbo engine for a truck was built at Swiss Machine Works Sauer.
Putting the turbo engine together
One of the main problems that one has to face when assembling a turbo engine is rust. In most cases, the underbody, fenders, and sills are very rusty. These problems cannot be ignored since the representatives of the VAZ group have too thin metal, not designed for high loads. That is why, armed with a welding machine and new iron, it is necessary to replace all damaged areas. After correcting the indicated inaccuracies in the metal, you will have to scrutinize the wiring, since in most cases, you have to change it too.
The engine is one of the most important units, the good condition of which directly affects the success of tuning. Together with the transmission and the braking system, it must be in perfect working order.
When assembling a turbo engine, the issue of the cylinder head cannot but be touched upon. If you need a car only for standard city trips, it is quite possible to limit yourself to a standard cylinder head. Still, if you plan to squeeze the maximum out of the engine, the vehicle itself is preparing to participate in drag racing. It would be more expedient to install a cylinder head with enlarged channels and valves. With its help, you can get more power.
You can achieve the maximum output of the turbo engine with an increase in the diameter of the exhaust manifold: from the downpipe to the end can.
Remember! By narrowing the line in one place, you will reduce its entire diameter.
For power units from 200 hp. The best option is the use of an exhaust system with a diameter of 60-63 mm. As a turnkey solution, you can use the MG-RACE resonator and silencer with a pipe diameter of 60 mm.
The clutch of the turbo engine, including the urban one, is the next important aspect when assembling. You can use a ready-made kit (for example, PILENGA Sport, complemented by a metal clutch disc and damper). However, one should take into account that in conditions of constant city traffic jams, such a solution may cause some inconvenience, although with the transmission of engine torque with a capacity of up to 300 hp. it does a great job.
Summing up all of the above, you should note that in each case, the process of installing a turbo engine on a VAZ has its own characteristics and give a general answer to the question “How to put a turbo on a VAZ 2109 with an injection engine?” or “How to turbo the carburetor VAZ 2105?”, of course, it is impossible. And is it worth doing? Each car owner must answer this question independently.
How to install the turbo correctly?
It is no secret to anyone that the correct installation of the turbo means preserving your nerves and the health of the turbocharger for many years. We present to your attention a checklist, the points of which should be observed in such an important turbo process.
TOP RULES HOW TO INSTALL A turbo
- Ensure that the engine is in good working order (all electronic components are working correctly, the piston system complies with the vehicle manufacturer’s standards, the oil and fuel pumps are in good working order, the engine power system is in good working order). Make sure that the cause of the turbocharger failure has been eliminated and no other is similar.
- Make sure that the air passages of the intake and exhaust systems are clean and not clogged (pipes, intercooler, intake, and exhaust manifolds are free of oil, gasket particles, dust, coke, etc.), and also check their integrity and tightness (no cracks, slots, etc.). If in doubt, replace with new ones. Replace the air filter according to the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.
- Check that the oil supply/return pipes to the turbocharger are clean and not clogged. Check their integrity and tightness. If there is any damage or obstruction, replace them with new ones. Make sure the oil supply/drain is not obstructed.
- Change the oil and oil filter according to the vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.
- Clean the oil pan. Watch the oil level.
- Check the condition of the crankcase ventilation system. In most cases, the crankcase breather pipe is attached to the turbocharger air intake. An obstruction in the crankcase ventilation system prevents the oil from the turbocharger from draining into the sump. Carry out appropriate repairs or replacements if necessary.
- Check the condition of the exhaust manifold flange (cracks or blockages). If in doubt, replace with new ones. Check the condition of the exhaust system. When replacing the turbocharger, the catalytic converter (particulate filter) must also be replaced or removed.
- Install the turbocharger to the exhaust manifold, making sure the gasket is properly seated. Connecting the oil supply/return and turbocharger cooling system leads may require reorientation by releasing the tabs on the volutes. Subsequently, check that all fasteners are tight and that the turbocharger shaft rotates freely.
- Connect the oil return pipe, then fill the turbocharger with clean oil through the inlet. When doing this, turn the rotor slowly by hand. Make sure the turbocharger is filled with oil before starting the engine. Before starting, crank the engine without starting it to circulate oil to the turbocharger.
- Do not use a sealant when installing the turbocharger. Subsequently, it will harden, and pieces of it will cause damage to the turbocharger. Use only special gasket kits.
- Check the integrity, tightness, and cleanliness of the vacuum tubes to the turbocharger’s electronic and mechanical control units. If in doubt, replace with new ones.
- Connect all of the turbocharger leads. Crank the engine without starting it (turn off the fuel supply) to build up oil pressure in the turbocharger.
- Start the engine and at idle speed (minimum 10 minutes) make sure all connections are tight and there are no leaks anywhere.
- After major or current engine repairs, the first oil change after 100 km, the second after 1000 km.
- Of course, installing a turbo is a rather complicated procedure. It takes a lot of experience and attention. Therefore, we recommend always contacting specialists of the required profile for turbos. If you want to maintain your psychological balance and worry less about the correct functioning of the turbo after its installation, please contact a qualified mechanic!
Turbo installation – how to install a turbo correctly
Installation of the turbo requires removing all transport plugs from it. Carefully inspect the connection points on the engine, make sure there are no foreign objects in the gas, air, and oil channels.
According to the recommendations of specialists, the replacement of the turbo should be carried out at specialized repair enterprises licensed for this type of work performed. Self-installation of a turbocharger requires certain actions and operations.
Installation recommendations after turbo repair:
- The turbocharger is connected to the engine’s exhaust manifold by the inlet flange of the turbo housing. You must install the turbocharger in such a way that the axis of the oil inlet and outlet flanges is vertical. Do not attempt to modify the design of the oil lines. ATTENTION! Do not use caulking compounds.
- Pour 20-30 grams of clean engine oil of the same brand used in the engine into the turbo oil supply hole (inlet flange of the bearing housing) and turn the turbo rotor several times by hand (for more even distribution of the lubricant). The rotor should rotate easily without jamming.
- Before installing the turbo on the engine, check that all piping (oil supply/drain, compressor, and turbo inlet/outlet) is clean and free of any foreign matter.
- After installation on the engine, check the tightness of the air path connections in front of and behind the turbocharger.
- At the end of the turbo installation, turn the engine with the starter several times without starting it (until the oil pressure indicator goes out) to supply oil to the turbocharger.
- After installing the restored (new) turbo, start the engine and let it idle for 10-15 minutes. The oil pressure must be at least 0.8 kg / cm2. Check the connections for oil leaks. Then operate the engine following the instructions.
Turbocharger components, which are needed to install the turbo.
This article will tell you what you need to purchase and what modifications are needed when assembling a turbocharged engine.
There is a common misconception that it is enough for an engine to become turbocharged to purchase a turbocharger, screw it onto the engine simply, and it is immediately ready for full operation. It goes without saying that this is far from the case. You need to understand that the turbocharger is just a part of the link, albeit quite important. To understand what generally needs to be done so that air under pressure begins to flow into the engine, it is necessary to grasp the essence of how it works, at least superficially.
An exhaust manifold
The turbocharger consists of a cold section, a hot section, a cartridge, a shaft, and impellers. Air is pumped directly inside the cold part by the impeller, which is set in motion because exhaust gases spin the other impeller under pressure in the hot part. Based on this, we need to supply the exhaust gases to the turbocharger, from which it follows that we need at least a special manifold for the turbocharger. Because There are a great variety of turbochargers – there are many different “seats” of a turbocharger, the so-called “flanges,” and it is necessary to understand that the exhaust manifold for one turbo can easily be completely incompatible with another. Therefore, when choosing an exhaust manifold, make sure it is compatible with the selected turbocharger.
We have already figured out that a turbocharger needs a manifold to work, through which exhaust gases enter it under pressure. But after doing useful work and spinning the turbocharger shaft, these exhaust gases must go further into the exhaust line, and for this, we need the so-called—downpipe (English). In fact, a downpipe is a turbocharger outlet flange to which a part of the line of various shapes is welded (depending on the individual layout of a particular car). To further calibrate the engine into the downpipe, it is necessary to weld a nut under the lambda probe (a hub nut from the classic is suitable) at a distance of 90 millimeters from the exhaust valves (about 30-40 centimeters from the turbocharger), although this moment is not so critical – almost any distance of the lambda is permissible – a probe from the turbocharger, the main condition is at least one and a half meters before the end of the exhaust. It is also highly recommended to weld a corrugation into the downpipe to avoid kink loads while moving the engine.
Special gaskets are used to seal the turbocharger-to-exhaust manifold and downpipe connections more efficiently. You should not save on this seemingly trifling point when building an engine. Use only original gaskets for your turbocharger – this will save you from constant burnouts and eternal searches for a solution to a problem that initially did not exist. There was no desire to save a little.
We know perfectly well that the whole essence of turbocharging is that air compressed by a turbocharger is supplied under pressure to the engine. Still, for it to get there, an airline is needed, which includes aluminum (or steel) pipes connected by silicone nozzles. The movement pattern of compressed air usually looks like this: turbocharger – intercooler – intake manifold – engine. To ensure correct operation, it is necessary to lay a line from the turbocharger to the intercooler and from the intercooler to the intake manifold. In addition to the fact that you must connect the pipes with silicone nozzles, they must be rigidly fixed so that air under pressure does not throw off these same silicone nozzles from the pipes; for this, special power clamps are used.
For a turbocharger to operate for a long time, it needs lubrication and cooling. The lubricant is engine oil, which is supplied under pressure from the engine’s lubrication system. But to provide the turbocharger with lubrication, an oil line is needed, the so-called oil supply. In addition to the lubricating function, the oil also cools the turbocharger. Still, often on gasoline engines, where the operating temperature of the turbocharger can be very high, this cooling is not sufficient. To further increase the cooling of the turbocharger, coolant is supplied to it from the engine cooling system, and a so-called antifreeze supply is also required to provide the supply line. from which you took them. For this purpose, an oil drain and a coolant drain line must also be connected to the turbocharger. We do not highly recommend saving on these points because homemade oil supply and antifreeze lines very often fail, which leads to dire consequences – failure of the turbocharger, lower oil pressure in the engine lubrication system and, as a result, its failure, and even fire in the engine compartment.
There is another important component of the air route, which you should take out in a separate item. During the operation of the turbocharger, excess pressure is created in the airline. When the throttle valve is open – everything is fine, air under pressure enters the engine, and it works with increased power. But as soon as the throttle valve closes, the excess pressure in the airline cannot also abruptly disappear because the turbo shaft is still rotating at very high speeds, and the air is still being pumped. To relieve excess pressure in the line, a relief valve is installed, the so-called. Bypass. A valve opens by the vacuum created in the intake manifold by closing the throttle and dumping all excess air back to the turbocharger inlet.
By increasing the amount of air entering the motor by raising the pressure, we naturally increased its need for fuel. Since standard fuel injectors cannot provide fuel even with minimal boost, you must replace them with more efficient ones. It is worth remembering that the performance of the nozzles should not be taken from the ceiling, just as you should not choose the nozzles according to the principle “from what was.” you should always discuss the choice of injectors with the person who will tune the motor after its final assembly.
In addition to increasing the performance of the fuel injectors, it is necessary to take care of the performance of the fuel pump – a standard fuel pump can provide only a small increase in power, the threshold of which is crossed in most cases when installing and further refinement of a turbocharged engine.
This is a very voluminous item that should be covered in more detail. By increasing the air-fuel mixture, we also increase the dynamic compression ratio, which leads to an increased likelihood of detonation, which is detrimental to the engine.
There are many ways to combat this effect:
- An increase in the octane number of the fuel, which reduces the likelihood of detonation, but is quite an expensive and unacceptable measure in the case of everyday use of the car because we do not need extra spending on the difference in the cost of gasoline;
- Enrichment of the fuel-air mixture is fairly common, but in reality, it is insufficiently effective and reasonable to reduce the probability of detonation. By increasing the amount of fuel per air unit, we reduce the engine’s efficiency, increase fuel consumption, and reduce its resource. In addition, highly enriched compounds are harmful to the exhaust manifold. The turbocharger – unburned fuel begins to burn out already outside the cylinders, strongly heating the exhaust manifold, turbocharger, and the entire exhaust tract.
- Reducing the ignition timing is a more effective method of combating knock but requires more careful tuning and somehow reducing the engine’s efficiency.
- Reducing the compression ratio is the most acceptable method since it is extremely effective, although it requires mechanical intervention in the engine. There are several ways to reduce the compression ratio, but the most successful and reasonable is installing special pistons. Given their low price and very high resistance to increased power (up to 400 hp – guaranteed) – this method is actually the only correct one when building a turbocharged engine for everyday use.
For a turbocharged engine to work correctly, you must properly control it. When installing a turbocharger, the software’s individual calibration (adjustment) must be carried out without fail. Moreover, you must very carefully tune the program for a specific engine because the likelihood of engine damage due to improper tuning is much higher than on naturally-aspirated engines. There are many control systems and programs for controlling turbocharged engines, and the care of the right choice and, accordingly, the correct tuning falls on the shoulders of the person who will tune the engine.
Refinement of the engine cooling system
With an increase in engine power, its temperature load increases, which makes the operation of a sufficiently powerful engine less comfortable (and in some cases even unrealistic) during everyday use in urban conditions. Several measures are highly desirable to take when increasing engine power. They are described in more detail in our article.
To effectively manage the boost pressure, a boost controller is needed. Boost controllers can be mechanical or electronic. Mechanical boost controllers are simpler in principle and cheaper, but they bring many discomforts if the boost pressure needs to be quickly controlled.
Electric boost controllers are more advanced – many models can control boosts both in the selected gear and in throttle position and engine speed. Setting up this function is useful and even inevitably necessary in most cases to achieve maximum results at any sporting event.